Prints like plastic, polishes like stainless steel!
Introducing Stainless Steel-Filled Metal Composite PLA. Using real steel powder, we've created a premium metal PLA filament for 3D prints that finish just like real stainless steel! Our steel composite filament is as versatile as it is beautiful, printing like plastic, but finishing like real metal for beautiful, durable parts from most standard 3D printers.
We suggest experimenting with polishing using this starter kit (includes instructional videos).
**This filament is more abrasive than standard PLA. Be prepared to replace your nozzle and do 1st layer adjustment. Try a wear resistant and/or larger diameter nozzle for increased service intervals.
- Available in 1.75 & 2.85 (3) mm diameters.
- 125g are loose coils, 500g is on a 8" diameter spool, 2kg is on a 12" diameter spool.
- Usable on most PLA-compatible printers, such as Lulzbot, Makerbot, FlashForge, Dremel, Ultimaker, Printrbot, and more!
In filament form, SSPLA is slightly more brittle than standard PLA, and requires extra care when handling. Processing is comparable to standard PLA. No heated bed required. Process may be less consistent on smaller nozzles and/or bowden type machines, We frequently print using direct-drive systems with 0.4mm nozzles, though suggest 0.6mm and 210-230C for the best experience.
Finishing Techniques
Whether you want your prints to be polished with the same bright mirror finish of shiny steel coins or a naturally rustic finish with an acquired patina reminiscent of an aged steel sculpture, the possibilities are endless with this specialty metal PLA filament. With so many finishing options, the sky is the limit! Here are just a few common finishing techniques for metal composite filaments you might want to try:
- Wire Brush to expose metal for future oxidation or a bright, satin finish
- Rock tumble with steel shot for darker, but smooth, shiny look
- Paint part (black for example) to fill recesses with a contrasting color
- Polish with a rotary tool, cotton buff, and polishing compound for a bright, mirror finish on high spots (darkens low spots)
- Polish with paper for a clean, smooth, and bright finish with less darkening
- Patina (oxidize) exposed metal naturally or accelerate with a 50/50 vinegar/hydrogen peroxide mixture saturated with salt. Place in sealed plastic bag to retain moisture. Heat further accelerates reaction.
Try these techniques separately or combine! Change the order or try something new. If you discover a new technique, make something beautiful, or discover something unexpected, share it! When you've got that perfect, WOW finish, consider preserving it with a clear coat or brush applicable water-based, food-safe, and dishwasher safe coating like Modge Podge. Practice your finishing a on a test piece like Protognome
(download here).
Now the only question is, "What will you make?"
Applications
Some application ideas include:
- Faux brick or stone
- Fixtures or hardware
- Knobs or buttons
- Heat sinks or exchangers
- Fine art & sculpture
- Emblems, signage, or trophies
- Jewelry, like pendants or bracelets
- Cosplay, game pieces, or figurines
Material Data
- Base resin: PLA
- Additive: Real Steel Powder
- Particle size: less than 250 micron (0.25mm)
- Odor: low or no
- Density: Approx. 2.30 g/cc
- Length (500g): 97m (1.75mm) and 36m (2.85mm)
Printer Settings
- Speed: 10-20 mm/s 1st layer, 20-80 mm/s rest of part
- Nozzle Set-point: 185-215C (hottest on 1st layer for best adhesion)
- Nozzle Actual: maintain set-point, reduce speed if less than
- Nozzle Type: Standard or wear resistant for extended use
- Nozzle Diameter: 0.6mm or larger preferred, 0.4mm okay with 0.25mm minimum for experts
- Layer thickness: 0.15-0.20mm recommended for a balance of quality, reliability, and productivity
- Bed Temperature: Room-60C (over 60C can worsen warp)
- Bed Preparation: Elmers purple disappearing glue stick or your other favorite PLA surface preparation
This material has been flow optimized and has less moisture uptake than standard PLAs, however composites are still sometimes more tricky to print depending on hardware and software settings. The main challenge is to keep mass flow up (larger nozzle + fast speed) and in a single direction (minimal retraction) to avoid heat soak. More on that topic here.
